The return of the Vintage trend has renewed the spotlight on the Eaux de Cologne category ; be they in the classical style or much more modernist , the concept has become very popular again .

 

Often marketed on a unisex platform, the modern colognes have acquired almost a rule-breaking character: Neroli Portofino , Iris de Prada , and the Hermes range of colognes all have a pronounced style .

 

After the popularity of tea and soft citrus themes, the new freshness wants to show a more natural side, greener, and characterized by the light bitterness that is found in citrus tree leaves, with very sheer aquatic notes that are almost icy, green notes that are juicy and sappy, and also plant stem notes .

 

The "eaux fraiches", the delicate woody accords, the masculine florals, and the ‘ cerebral ‘ ingredients are sought after in both Europe and the USA .

 

 

In the creation of modern fresh notes, the highlighting of aspects of citrus tree leaves, with subtle bitter touches, is a path to follow :

The creation of a YUZU or KUMQUAT note, blends together the freshness , the natural character , and the exotic subtlety of these citruses , that are less well-known in Europe , but yet very popular in Asia and the US ; it allows a more modern cologne formulation , where a highly-dosed citrus accord creates a particularly appealing profile , supported by a heart and drydown that is more transparent floral , woody – dry , and musky .

 

 

Originating directly from the trend " a Desire to Travel " , the creation of a new Olibanum that is very fresh, pure and niche , and that is without the old-fashioned ‘ church ‘ aspects , is an innovative path to pursue .

Both unisex and also subtly masculine, the light terpenic sparkle of Olibanum, both explosive and long-lasting, finds its place in a more modern fragrance, with a persistent and notable freshness.

 

 

Coming from the Natural Products research programme at Payan Bertrand, " Baie Rose Process e " is a subtle material that marries the freshness of white pepper with the icy, almost fruity green, character of a frosted pear.

 

An accent of White Pepper, spicy and lightly minty, that merges the special character of this material with the delicate green notes that are much favoured this year, can be another avenue to explore.

 

 

Far removed from the aromatic and salicylic style of marine fragrances , the new aquatics concentrate on the concepts of the deepest freshness , an icy sea-spray , and a subtle woodiness. Notes such as Driftwood, Burmese Teak, and Japanese Hinoki allow the creation of modern woody accords that are dry and effusive, allied with the icy aquatic themes described above .  

 

The creation of an Absinthe note, that associates delicate floral and novel aromatic themes, lifted by a cocktail of mint leaves and anise. In the VINTAGE trend.

 

An interpretation of the ‘ Carnation of the Poets ‘ – a unisex creation featuring a fresh spicy floral, that is also woody and elegant . In the VINTAGE DANDY trend .