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SFP 2008 : Payan Bertrand introduces the Process e range. | Resulting from the development of innovative technology, the Process elixir offers selected superior raw materials that are enhanced by total control of the various manufacturing stages, and a recognized expertise in the treatment of natural products.
The clarity of the note, allied to the olfactive dimension and complete natural character, allows a more creative approach to formulation through suggestions of "overdosing" or highlighting of a core material, thus giving the fragrance a true signature.
|  Baies Rose Process e=>> a sparkling top note with green mango and fresh lime themes
=>> clarity and consistency of the spicy accord
=>> innate freshness in the top note
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 Myrrh Process e=>> purity and identification of the fruity and liquorice aspects
=>> richness of the natural leather note
=>> fixative effect of the amber and balsamic character
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 Rosemary Process e=>> the icy freshness of frozen pear
=>> clarity of the camphorless aromatic character
=>> anisic and verbena accents
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 Carrot Process e=>> green freshness with sparkling terpeneless top notes
=>> clarity and purity of the carrot note
=>> a perfect combination of fruity apricot notes
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Cognac | Vitis vinifera L. | In winemaking, the lees represent the spent yeasts that form the sediment at the bottom of the barrels following the fermentation process. | During fermentation, particulates are obtained, comprised of yeasts, bacterium, and other organics.
After decanting the wine, the lees remain in the barrel, and are then recovered and distilled to obtain the essential oil.
Distillation can either be made in stainless steel vessels which gives a pale yellow oil, or in copper vessels which gives a distinct green oil, this latter method being very rarely used nowadays.
As a by-product of the winemaking process, obviously the available qualities and quantities of Lie de Vin oils depend entirely on all the conditions at the time of grape-picking. Our Lie de Vin oils are all of French origin, from two regions in particular :
- the Champagne region, where the outlook for quantity, quality, and pricing appears stable for the coming year.
- the Alsace region, where the grape harvest (and consequently wine production) was lower this year, due to bad weather just at the start of the picking season. The quantity of lees available from this region has therefore been reduced.
Our product range also includes an excellent natural specialty, Ester 816, which has a characteristic and powerful fruity wine note.
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Styrax balsam | Liquidambar orientalis Miller/Turkey & Liquidambar styraciflua L./Honduras | The Liquidambar resin is one of the balsams used in ancient times by the Egyptians for embalming purposes with the crops being found in areas touched by the Egyptian and Roman Cultures. | There are two types of Styrax Balsam in modern commercial use:
- Americas Styrax Balsam originates from the Honduras, with the crop being taken from wild trees from June to November during the rainy season. The tree trunk is cut and the resin flows into a tin before being filtered and dried, as it contains a lot of water and impurities. The cleaned balsam has a warm honey colour and a soft balsamic odour. Recently the Honduran government has introduced new regulations to protect the forest and the environment; as a result, and fearing a crackdown from the authorities, the collectors are less and less enthusiastic about extracting the resin. The stocks at source are now completely depleted until the next crop which starts in July.
-The Asian variety of Styrax Balsam is mainly collected in Turkey and comes from a tree similar to the plane tree that grows in the large forests of Southwest Asia Minor, opposite the GreekIslands of Rhodes and Samos. In the spring, the trees are incised in various points, and then in the second half of the year, the exterior bark of the incised areas is removed with a special knife. The gum is then collected by bleeding the interior surface of the tree, and the soft part of the wood is boiled in large vats. The Turkish balsam has many impurities and an average water content of 20 to 30 %, with a powerful and balsamic odour.
Given the supply problems with Styrax from the Honduras, many buyers have focused instead on the Turkish origin, which has had the effect of driving up prices.
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Fragrance trend: “Vintage” | Even if the word has been used in every possible sense over the last two years, it's underlying meaning is constantly changing. "Vintage" is no longer used to signal a somewhat "kitsch" time-period, but instead to exemplify the "finest quality", in a return to the real linguistic origin of the word : "Vingt ans d'age".
Creativity is getting closer to the consumer and reemphasizing its values. The movement is to return to the grand classics, but then to modernize them whilst using the highest-quality ingredients. This is also being called a trend of "Neo-Classicism".
We are seeing the return of true Fougeres in masculine fragrances and even more so classic Chypres for feminine accords, both demonstrating the desire to mark luxury as a sign of the present times and to differentiate established luxury, as a sign of elegance, from the more provocative luxury of the immediate.
All the creative skills of the perfumer are being used in restating olfactive families :
- the Fougere category is leaving behind the overdoses of Dihydromyrcenol and rediscovering fresh aromatics and spices.
- Chypres (both floral and fruity styles) are reestablishing their unique identity and using richer ingredients such as mosses, labdanum, patchouli, and even olibanum.
Innovation is coming then from the "olfactive clarity" of the natural ingredients that perfumes are being built around. There is also a hint of a return to aldehyde accents and especially to the aldehydic florals, being used to highlight the sparkle of sophisticated notes such as orange flower.
To fully partner with this trend, our R&D groups are currently finalizing the launch of a new range of natural ingredients which will be available in the first part of 2007, and which will be shown at the forthcoming World Perfumery Congress to be held in Cannes from the 5th to the 9th June 2007. |
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